ABREU MADRONA RANCH

“God's country.” David had heard people refer to Howell Mountain as such in the 1980s. Biking through Las Posadas forest over the years, he came to understand. So, when the property he'd been eyeing on Cold Springs Road came up for auction in 2000, he jumped. Later, a parcel higher up the hill, across from the airport. All above the fog line, all on that red Aiken soil. It took him 15 years to develop the property—selectively, meticulously. A vineyard framed by perfectly symmetrical end posts, bordered by roads lain with gravel he'd pulled from the earth as boulders. All surrounded by pine and fir, a forest preserved as wilderness.

There were vines on this property before, in the 1800s. The redwood stakes David found are proof, as are the history books. Studded with names like Krug, Keyes and Hastings, pioneering men who also built their own roads, faced boulders the size of small houses—but with horses and ploughs. Like David, they were drawn to this place. By its rich, red soils. By the promise of solitude among the tall spiral pines. Or maybe by instinct —a gut feeling about what kind of grapes could be grown. What wines could be made.

We believe David may be the best vineyard manager in the world today!

100 points Wine Advocate

As I reported last year, the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch is a perfect Cabernet Sauvignon. It has been in bottle for over a year, and this wine, like all the others, has easily soaked up its aging in 100% new Taransaud barrels. It is a sumptuous, unctuously-textured, fabulously concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon that hits all the sweet spots on the palate, and puts the olfactory senses into overdrive. The wine smells and tastes perfect. It is a compelling effort that one day will be considered part of a small group of elite California Cabernets that may be rewriting the definition of greatness in Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1997 boasts an opaque black/purple color as well as a gorgeous bouquet of roasted meats, scorched earth, blackberry, creme de cassis, minerals, and toast. The soaring aromatics are matched by a phenomenally intense, seamless palate, with full-bodied opulence, exquisite purity and symmetry, and a multidimensional finish that lasts for nearly a minute. This wine will be delicious when released next year, and will last for 25-30 years. It is a tour de force in winemaking. (RP) (12/2000)